Living in SPain

Spain has a reputation of being one of the most LGBTQ+ friendly countries in Europe since it was the third European country to legalize same-sex marriage, adoption, and property rights, and gender confirmation surgery is covered under national healthcare. In the summer of 2020, a bill known as the “Trans Law ” was approved, making Spain the largest European country to allow people legally to change their name and gender on their ID documents.

At the same time, Spain is still a work in progress, and queer antagonism can still be found in both urban and rural communities. Past grantees have noted a culture of staring in the streets at times due to their gender presentation. Additionally, they have highlighted the stress that coming out to their friends and coworkers can bring. Remember, it is completely up to you to what extent and when you share in both professional and personal relationships. 

For example, since terms such as “novio” or “novia” are gendered, it is increasingly more common to use “pareja” as a catch-all term for partner, and it doesn’t implicate status of relationship (dating/marriage, for example). As you navigate this in the initial arrival, remember that you can always reach out to other Fulbrighters who are in a similar position via the QueerBright WhatsApp group (ask your mentor for the information) or the Fulbright Prism affinity group.

“One of the worst things about being racialized for me was feeling isolated, and how much that was exacerbated by people who (usually with good intentions) felt like they didn’t have a place in the conversation.” – Fulbright Spain Alum 

Everyone experiences race differently abroad, with varying degrees of privilege and comfort. As Fulbrighters work towards creating a culture of mutual understanding, it is essential for all grantees to foster a culture of anti-racism and care within the Fulbright cohort and in their communities.

Past grantees of color have noted that, because Spaniards often speak very directly, you may hear comments that surprise you and would not be common to say in the U.S. Ultimately, they have noted that uncomfortable comments are almost always made from a place of curiosity rather than malice, although they have a negative effect. In time, we hope that you can recognize the cultural context from which these comments come, while validating any feelings that may arise as a result.

Below you will find some experiences that past grantees have shared around experiencing their race in Spain. This compilation is not comprehensive, so if you would like to share something that may be of help to future grantees, please reach out to your contact at the Commission.

Comments from other people

Grantees of color have reported that sometimes strangers on the street have made racist comments toward them, such as shouting the N-word or “Ni-hao” or “Konichiwa”. While this is extremely offensive, often the safest and most effective response is to not acknowledge any strangers who might make these comments, especially if you are alone. Although these comments have never progressed beyond words according to past grantees, they all recommend that you leave the situation, whether by crossing to a different street or entering a store.

Past TAs have specifically mentioned that, although not often, they have heard some students make racist comments in the classroom, such as using the N-word in a joking manner or pretending to speak Arabic or Chinese in a mocking way. Other Latinx TAs have experienced students mocking their accent in Spanish. If this happens to you in the classroom, you can always stop and ask your students what they mean to say, or if they know how offensive those words can be in English. Then you can explain that, in the U.S., these words are hurtful and offensive.

However, because these comments can feel shocking in the moment, remember that you do not always have to respond to this in the moment if you are not ready. Past TAs in similar situations have come back to the comments in the same classroom later, by preparing a lesson about the history of the N-word in black communities, the Asian diaspora in the U.S., and different accents in English.

Where are you really from?

Many grantees of color have shared that, even after telling someone that they are from the U.S., they have been asked where they are really from. Many Spaniards might have a very specific picture painted of what an American looks like, but you can feel free to debunk that myth in the moment and use it as an opportunity to talk about your experience as an American. If you feel that responding in the moment isn’t something you’d like to do, as always, you can respond later by saying something along the lines of “I know you were probably just curious about my family but it makes me pretty uncomfortable when you keep asking where I’m from like that.”

Physical touch

Some past grantees of color have commented that, as Spaniards also tend to use more physical touch than many Americans are accustomed to, people sometimes felt comfortable touching their skin or hair. While this was always meant to be a compliment, this unwanted touch often caused shock or discomfort. Remember that you can always make your boundaries clear and ask someone to stop what they are doing if you are not comfortable with it, and you are not responsible for going into an explanation of why. Alternatively, remember that you do not always have to respond to this in the moment if you are not ready, and that you can come back to talk about something with a friend or colleague later.

Blackface in Spain

In Spain, there are certain instances when blackface might present itself such as Halloween, Three Kings’ Day, and Carnaval. This can be an especially jarring cultural experience, so remember that feelings of shock and discomfort are still valid, and you can always step away from a situation (a parade, an event at school) if you feel uncomfortable. However, past grantees have highlighted that it can be more jarring to find out that many Spaniards do not consider blackface to be racist because there is not the same history of minstrelsy in Spain as in the US. While this is true in part, Spain, like the U.S., has a complicated history around race. We encourage everyone, not just grantees of color, to read up on Black History in Spain.

Interactions with police

Unfortunately, several grantees of color, especially in larger cities like Madrid and Barcelona, have reported that they have been stopped by the police without an explanation and asked for their ID. You should be aware that the police are legally allowed to stop and question you for any reason at all, and unfortunately people of color are more likely to be racially profiled. If you are stopped, you should calmly and politely show your ID (passport, TIE, or driver’s license), or a photocopy of your ID, and explain that you are a student from the U.S. on a Fulbright grant. All grantees that have been stopped and asked for their ID have been let go without further incident. In fact, they reported that often, after they explained that they were from the U.S., the officer visibly softened and let them go without further questions. However, we know that this can be a traumatic experience, so if this happens to you, remember that you can always reach out to your contact at the Commission to talk.

Finding resources in your community

In bigger cities, it may be easier to tap into specific resources for people of color due to a larger, more multicultural population. However, wherever you are, it’s important to have a support system and safe spaces for yourself. You can find these communities in the locals in your town, other Americans, and Fulbrighters from all over Spain or the world. Facebook (still widely used in Spain) and WhatsApp groups are great ways to meet and build those communities for your time in Spain.

Spain is a country whose roots are deeply ingrained in Catholicism. In order to learn why this is, it’s important to consider its historical past (check out our Suggested Media and Reading lists!) Today, two-thirds of people living in Spain identify as Catholic, although this statistic does not reflect the number of practicing Catholics (which is, interestingly, one-third of the population). 

You may notice mixtures of the religious and secular in aspects of daily life in Spain, such as municipal festivals that celebrate a Catholic saint or nativity scenes in government buildings around Christmas. In addition, many schools (even public schools) offer a choice of a “religion’’ class, which really means a course about the Catholic faith, in addition to a “values’’ class. 

Despite ties to Catholicism, there is indeed religious diversity in Spain, and most people are excited and willing to learn about other faiths and beliefs.

”My advice is to engage with people who are open and curious but not to feel like you have to be an ambassador for your religion and educate people, especially those who do not have good intentions. Share whatever you feel comfortable with! My experiences as a Jewish person has been positive here, I talked to at least one colleague who had met a Jewish person before and he had a lot of questions, which was nice. I also really enjoyed engaging in the Jewish history of my city, which had a significant Jewish population before the Jewish expulsion in 1492 & there is a region called Judimendi which is named after them. I think the history really is fascinating, and really can be a way for at least Jewish and Muslim people to connect to previous generations that lived in Spain (or ruled the Iberian peninsula!) and not feel as alone or isolated if there is not a religious community near you.’‘ – Fulbright Spain Alum

Gender violence and gender equality are major topics of discussion in Spanish society today. Awareness is spreading, especially as cases of sexual assault and gender-based violence garner more media attention. In many public spaces, you’ll see posters or other acknowledgments of the cause. For example, in Madrid’s Puerta del Sol, there are often booths of women offering information and support to the public. 

Comments from other people

In general in Spain it is more common to comment on people’s physical characteristics, and this is not necessarily considered rude. Past grantees that were women or presented as femme have shared that it’s common to be called “guapa”, “pequeña”, or “morena” by their colleagues or friends. Some past grantees of color have reported that they felt more sexualized because of their race, such as being told that their smiles had “a different energy”. While the grantees clarified that these labels and comments were almost never made with bad intentions, they recommended setting boundaries with what you are comfortable with. 

“If someone is being persistent or you feel uncomfortable in any way, it is okay to be assertive and clarify how you would like to be treated. Similarly, if they are calling you a name that bothers you, ask them to stop. Set limits for what is acceptable to you and try to be consistent.” – Fulbright Spain Alum

Piropos – Catcalling

Piropos stem from traditional practices of courtship or cortesía (think the pick-up lines of Cervantes’ day). Comments have evolved from poetry lines recited to women in the street to the less-flattering, sometimes-vulgar sayings of today. They often happen while walking on the street or in daily interactions.

Piropos and cat-calls are not necessarily worse in Spain than in the U.S., but they might be more noticeable or you might feel more uncomfortable hearing catcalls in Spanish. The vast majority of the time, these phrases aren’t said with malicious intent or aggression. However, you should always prioritize your health and safety and, remember, you are never obligated to respond to any comments you hear on the street.

While the stipend payments are generous enough to live comfortably in every region, they may not be sufficient to live alone in a spacious apartment or take frequent weekend trips to other countries in Europe. Past grantees from low-income backgrounds have shared that it can be difficult to see some Fulbrighters clearly living beyond the money they are receiving from the stipend payments, which are meant to cover the cost of living, and require that you budget for expenses.

Here are some recommendations around common themes from the comments of past grantees:

Travel

Some people approach their Fulbright grant as a chance to have a glamorous, jet-setting lifestyle in Europe. However, it is important to remember that the Fulbright grant is meant, first and foremost, to facilitate cultural exchange in your placement – that is to say, at your host institution, your city/town, and your region. In fact, grantees who frequently traveled to other countries during the grant have shared at the end of the year that they wished they had been able to integrate more into their host region.

With this in mind, many past grantees have strongly recommended that you first get to know your city/town and region before traveling to other parts of Spain and Europe, and that you stay put for at least the first month or two. Not only is this more economical, but the vast majority have said that this is the best way to culturally integrate and make friends. Remember that many regional holidays and festivals happen during the puentes (breaks), so if you decide to travel during that time, you will miss out on that cultural experience!

For more information about ocio, travel, and things to see in each city/town and region, check out each region’s Ocio Guide.

If you decide to travel a bit farther away, but still on a budget, sites like Skyscanner are recommended to find the cheapest flights around Spain and Europe. Booking.com and Hostelworld.com have been recommended to find affordable, but high-quality hostels (by looking at reviews).

Clases particulares

Clases particulares are private English classes paid for in cash that are commonly given by native speakers in people’s homes or at cafés. Past grantees have shared that clases particulares were not only a great way to augment the stipend payments while filling the afternoons, but that they were a wonderful way to get to know families and students in a more casual way. Many grantees have become very close with families of their classes, and have exchanged gifts around the holidays, and even been invited to their pueblo to spend the weekend.

Most, if not all, past TAs have found that many parents at their school(s) request clases particulares during the afternoons, and that usually they have more requests than they can fill. Other student grantees have received requests from professors or even friends for clases particulares. Most people have charged between 15-20 euros per hour for clases particulares, but these rates vary by region and the number of students in a class, so it’s recommended to ask the mentor in your region for the common going rate.

Keep in mind that, during your Fulbright grant, your first priority must always be your grant activity. So, if you see that these clases particulares begin to affect your ability to carry out your grant activity or if they impede you from integrating in region, you will need to adjust the amount of clases particulares that you are giving.

Budgeting

Budgeting is an important part of living comfortably on the grant payments in Spain. However, not everyone arrives in Spain with experience creating and sticking to a budget. If that is the case for you, past grantees recommend writing out a budget for the first couple of months and tracking spending, so that you can get an idea of how the grant payments can be spent.

“Google Drive actually has a great template for budgeting in their spreadsheets that I used to manage my expenses during the first couple of months. I saw that, as I thought about what I was spending more, it became easier to save for the trips I wanted to take for longer breaks like Semana Santa.” – Fulbright Spain Alum

Some grantees have also found these Auxiliares’ blogs to be helpful to get an idea of budgeting while in Spain: Teach Travel Budget, Miss Adventures Abroad