TENERIFE
ABOUT TENERIFE
As the biggest island in terms of both landmass and population, Tenerife is the heart of Canarias. It hosts one of the two capitals of the region, Santa Cruz de Tenerife, as well as many of the archipelago’s main attractions, such as El Teide, which is Spain’s highest peak. Inhabitants are formally known as tinerfeñ@s, but you will likely hear locals use “chicharrer@s” to refer to them, although this term is mainly used to refer to people from Santa Cruz. The population of the island is ~900,000, spread throughout 31 municipalities but mostly concentrated in Santa Cruz and the adjoining city of (San Cristóbal de) La Laguna.
Because of the combined effects of tourism and the presence of one of the only universities in Canarias (Universidad de La Laguna, ca. 1792), there is a diverse blend of people in Tenerife mixing with the underlying local population. Many young people arrive from other islands to study at the university and other vocational schools, and over 5 million tourists come from all over Europe and the rest of the world each year to visit and sometimes even settle down. Tenerife is also a primary landing base for immigrants from Latin America and the Caribbean, many of whom have family ties in the Islands. While there are many touristic areas in Tenerife (particularly in the south), much of the island remains largely untouched. Tinerfeñ@s are very proud of their culture and heritage, and love to share it with others – you will be no exception!
Tenerife has multiple fútbol clubs, the most notable of which is CD Tenerife, based in Santa Cruz with home games at El Estadio Heliodoro Rodríguez López. This team plays in Spain’s Segunda División, although it has in the past played in the top flight, Primera División. The club’s biggest rival is UD Las Palmas, based in Gran Canaria, and the two islands have a bit of a pique, in fútbol and beyond. For example, the western islands exclusively drink Dorada beer brewed on Tenerife, while the eastern islands drink only Tropical, brewed on Gran Canaria!
TRANSPORTATION
Tenerife has its own primary guagua (bus) service, known as TITSA. The bus routes have many lines in Santa Cruz and La Laguna and also connect the majority of the island, even smaller pueblos. There are also express buses to both airports. Bus schedules are somewhat accurate on Google Maps, but you should always have the web or the TITSA app ready to confirm times and routes. It’s commonly said that guaguas in Canarias do “lo que les da la gana” (“whatever they want”), so do not be surprised if schedules and real life differ. Be aware that buses (and ferries) run more infrequently/at different times on weekends, and especially on Sundays or holidays.
The bus schedule at night is also different. Although there are still options, the bus can sometimes be difficult to take at night. For example, the 110 and 111 are the major buses between the north and south of the island and they don’t run all night. For that reason, it’s important to be aware of the schedule so you know when the last bus is. ¡Ojo! If you are taking a guagua from the intercambiador in Santa Cruz late at night, the platform may have changed; usually, busses that depart from the top floor during the day are now on the bottom floor outside the building at night, usually after 10pm.
Another option for getting around Santa Cruz and La Laguna is El Tranvía de Tenerife, which is a tram running through the two cities. There are two lines, with Line 1 running through mostly commercial sites and workplaces, and Line 2 running through the most densely-populated residential areas. On Monday through Thursday, the tram starts running at 6 am and stops running at midnight. On weekends, it runs 24 hours/day. Past grantees note that it can be a little slower (30 minutes to get between La Laguna and Santa Cruz), but is a nice ride and a great option if there is heavy traffic. You can find schedules and routes at here.
If you plan on using public transportation frequently, make sure to get the abono jovén, which affords unlimited rides on buses and trams for just 30€/month. You can apply for it online as soon as you have your empadronamiento — so make sure to get your empadronamiento early on! However, if you think you’ll only use the bus sparingly (i.e. to get to the airport), it’s best to just put money on your card as needed.
It’s also possible to use your phone rather than a physical card. You can use the ten+móvil app to buy guagua passes. Scan the QR code as you get on and show the driver. But note that you have to choose between the two, and can’t connect the digital and physical accounts.
The hubs of all public transportation in Tenerife are intercambiadores, and most lines begin, end, or route through one of the two located in Santa Cruz and La Laguna. At these stations, you can easily find taxis, book ferry tickets, and catch buses to the ports or airports. For specific information on arriving to either airport, visit TFN and TFS.
While public transportation in Tenerife is good, past grantees note it is advantageous to make friends with cars or even to rent a car occasionally to be able to explore the island more thoroughly. Taxis are omnipresent throughout the island, and are typically reasonably-priced for short trips. There are also many car rental agencies in any major city/port.
For more information on arriving to Tenerife, remember to check out the Canarias Travel Guide.
MARKETS/SUPERMARKETS
For past grantees, Mercadona was the favorite supermarket. There are over 20 locations all over the island, with many concentrated in the northern cities. The local chain HiperDino/SuperDino is also omnipresent and quite nice, along with Lidl and Hipercor stores. However, almost all are closed on Sundays, so be sure to plan ahead for your food shopping, though you may be able to find a SPAR that is open for at least part of the day.
Two of the most notable markets on Tenerife for food and more are Mercado Municipal de Nuestra Señora de África in Santa Cruz and Mercadillo de La Laguna in la Plaza del Cristo. For a complete list of farmers’ markets on Tenerife with location details and schedules, visit here.
GYMS AND EXERCISE
The favorite gym of past grantees was BodyFactory Tenerife, located in Santa Cruz. They also noted that Indoor Santa Cruz is an excellent place to play pádel, which is similar to tennis. In La Laguna, Urban Fitness and Mugendo La Laguna get excellent reviews. San Benito is the equivalent to La Laguna’s YMCA, with almost all the gym facilities you would want, including classes and a pool. A lot of young people go to MacroFit. In Puerto de la Cruz, Gimnasio Casablanca is a local favorite.
Past grantees also loved running in their placement cities. One grantee based in Santa Cruz recommends starting at the ferry departure dock and running towards Las Teresitas (the main beach in the north). There are lovely walking routes along the water, and Parque García Sanabria is also an excellent place to dar un paseo.
For information and recommendations for hiking, beaches, and more, make sure to visit the Outdoor Activities section of the Canarias Ocio Guide.
LANGUAGE CLASSES
There are innumerable opportunities to improve your Spanish on Tenerife. You could enroll in a formal class, such as at Don Quijote in Puerto de la Cruz, or at the FU International Academy or ISE in La Laguna or Santa Cruz. Many grantees opted for intercambios in local establishments, which offer a more casual setting. One grantee in Puerto de la Cruz loved attending the Wednesday night language exchange at Agora Bar & Café. Another recommended language exchange was the Thursday night intercambio at Cafe Siete in La Laguna, or a similar one at Café Don Tito. If you are interested in such an event, be sure to keep an eye (and ear) out for upcoming opportunities.
SHOPPING
Of course, Tenerife has ample opportunities to go shopping! The cities in the north and the tourist areas in the south are both commercial hubs, but most grantees preferred to stay in the north where prices are generally more reasonable. They recommend checking out Calle Castillo and the Méndez Núñez area in Santa Cruz, as well as El Corte Inglés, Primark (compared to a Walmart or Target by some), and el Centro Comercial Meridiano, which has a very wide selection of items.
In La Laguna, you’ll find many shops on Calle Obispo Rey Redondo and Calle Herradores, mixed in with cafés, bakeries, and art galleries.
In Puerto de la Cruz, check out the shops along the waterfront, as well as Centro Comercial Martiánez.
NIGHTLIFE
In Santa Cruz, past grantees recommend heading to Terraza Isla del Mar or Tao for a typical discoteca experience. La Noria is a street lined with lots of bars that is perfect for socializing, while Avenida de Anaga provides a similar experience albeit a bit removed from the city center. There are many clubs in the metropolitan area that offer salsa dancing lessons, which can make for a very fun night out. For example, El Bambú in Santa Cruz hosts salsa and bachata nights – a great way to make friends!
In La Laguna, most university students tend to tomar algo in the terrazas on Calle Heraclio Sanchez, whereas older students or adults drink por la Concepción, which is the casco antiguo of La Laguna. El Cuadrilatero is a typical plaza for botellon and clubbing in La Laguna, as well as a few places on Avenida Trinidad. In Puerto de la Cruz, Andana is a fun beach club. In the south, grantees recommend El Papagayo.